Thursday, 14 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing #Days 12 & 13 Advice using Proto-Pasta Matte Fiber HTPLA Cinnamon Pine and Glitterflake

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Days 12 & 13

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Last time - Day #11 Post (Potjie - cooking pot) was printed in Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron and also Conductive Graphite HTPLA. It's still rusting nicely.

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Days #12 & 13.

Day 12 gift is designed by Gerhardt Breedt -  It's a Christmas Raptor complete with Santa hat! 


Day 13 gift is designed by Andries Smuts -  It's a crate of Christmas Beer.


I'm going on my second advent double day(te) with Proto-Pasta for both the day 12 and 13 gifts.

I'm catching up with this post and including two gifts that use a number of amazing Proto-Pasta filaments.

Lets start with Day 12 - Raptor...

As a child, I often woke up to plastic dinosaurs on Christmas morning, I had many of them. Ah, the memories, Mr Stegosaurus, T-Rex and Bronty were simply amazing to a ~7 year old.


I also have the most perfect 'dinosaur' filament. It's Proto-Pasta Matte fiber  HTPLA Green


Matte fiber is also very strong and rigid. The natural plant fibers add both strength and the rough matte finish.

I'm also using matte fiber Red for the dinosaur's hat.


I would have made it out of the new Proto-Pasta Candy Apple Red, but it's nowhere to be found in the UK and an exclusive colour batch (do take a look at the link, it's jaw dropping).

The surface finish is perfect for a dinosaur.


Day 12 - Done.

Now onto Day 13 - Crate of Christmas beer - 

First the beer crate. I could make it out of yet another wood filament, but that's a little obvious, so how about pine?


I still have a small amount of 2016 vintage Aromatic Pine to use for Day 13. It releases a wonderful smell of pine as it prints - really getting you in the mood for the holidays. (also do read the story at the end on how Proto-Pasta make it).


It's simple to use, just normal PLA settings and it's done.

Now the beer...

Beer filament is actually available (Buzzed from 3DFuel), but I don't have any, so the bottles for Day 13 are going to be non-alcoholic 'Cinnamon flavoured'.


Cinnamon HTPLA is another material that's all about enjoying the 3D Printing process. It smells like cinnamon as you print. The smell does not last after printing, but it's a really nice experience.
I have made the wooden crate out of Proto-Pasta High temperature PLA - (HTPLA) Aromatic Pine


The six pack of bottles have a black PLA base, it's not seen and will help save on exotic filament. And cinnamon PLA for the body. At the top I'm using some Proto-Pasta Glitterflake to look like bubbles. Finally they have red caps in matte fiber HTPLA.


Glitter flake is the most glittery packed filament I have found. It contains more glitter per inch than any other and the results look spectacular.


'Beer' Cinnamon bottles printed with a frosty top and red matte fiber bottle caps.

Day 13 tree is printed in Polyalchemy Elixir Emerald City Green

Print advice - (Proto-Pasta matte fiber HTPLA)

What settings did you use? - Matte fiber HTPLA's are really easy to use. You can start with normal PLA settings, but back off the temperature a little. 195 Degrees C is perfect. 
It's a good idea to increase extruder retraction distance by +20% this will help reduce angel-hair on the finished print.

The filament, it's not very brittle, and it produces surprisingly strong finished parts. I would say overall a lot stronger than normal PLA, and layer bonding is excellent.

Why use it? - It has a unique look after printing, like a slightly rough even sanded finish (almost sand-blast) in appearance. You can control the finish a little with layer heights and temperature, but it's never going to be silky smooth, that's not the point of this filament.

Is it strong? - It's surprisingly strong as a finished part, but small features are a little brittle. If you have ever used Carbon fiber materials, it's a little like that, but feels 'softer' to the touch.

Is it easy to use/print - Yes, super easy. Don't go too high in temperature (210 max) and use z-hop so you don't get any nozzle marks on the final top layers.

Do you have to dry it before/after use? - No - it's good as it is.

Do i need a 'special' nozzle? - No it's not abrasive at all. You also do not require a special nozzle to print, it does not wear nozzles.

You can think of matte-fiber like coloured wood filament, but it's even stronger than current wood-filled materials available.
Does it smell when printing? - No, not at all (matte fiber HTPLA). - Obviously the pine and cinnamon smell lovely. I'm still looking out for a good vanilla scented filament... maybe next year.

Does it come on a eco friendly spool? - Yes! :-) The Proto-Pasta spools are about the best cardboard spools you can get at the moment. They look great, and feed material well, and are 100% paper / card.

Conclusion for Proto-Pasta Matte fiber HTPLA - I really love this filament range, the colours are strong, the parts feel nice to the touch and layer lines vanish in the sand-blasted effect. Always have some on hand, as it's the only matte material with a non-smooth finish available.

Days 1 to 13 of the Advent Christmas Tree.

Day #12 and 13 are completed. I have also just about caught up, and i'm also ahead with tree sections for the next few days.

I think the story here needs to be about the special Aromatic Pine filament Proto-Pasta make every year. This is now a tradition for the Proto-Pasta family team - Every year Proto-Pasta uses last year's Christmas tree to make one very special and seasonal batch of 3D printing filament. It's a bonkers process or stripping pine needles, drying and pulverising them into a powder. This is added to their HTPLA to produce a very special and exclusive batch of Aromatic Pine filament to enjoy.

They do this for the fun, not the money, and they have just made this year's batch here.


Images by Proto-Pasta - source - website

Join me next time for Day #14 - (maybe a bit late to post, I have a Christmas party to attend...)

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

Tuesday, 12 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing #Day 11 Advice using Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron PLA and Conductive Graphite

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 11

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day #10, and today the gift is designed by Megesh Govender -  It's a Potjie (cooking pot)

Potjie - cooking pot - printed in three parts, and because it's Christmas, filled with sweets!

There is a material for every project. Today we have a Potjie (cooking pot) and that's usually going to be made of metal. Iron maybe. Perfect! Let's use Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron PLA.


This 3D Printing filament if one of the most fun to use that's in existence today. I have had a lot of joy using this for all sorts of objects and art / sculptural projects. It's probably the material people ask me most questions about - usually after seeing the finished models.


The reason why this material often catches the eye, it that you can make it rust. It actually does not shine up like other metal filaments (you can get a little shine if you almost kill yourself polishing it).

It's also magnetic, I have found some geeky uses for that, but mostly it's all about the rusting.

I'm not going to be able to show you the rusting straight away (it takes a little while), but I will make it rust and show you when it's looking great.

If you want to know more about my adventures with Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron printing, do take a look at this blog post and video here.

Do take a look at my previous blog post on Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron for lots of info and prints.

The above blog and video link also explains more about the rusting process - (it's really easy).
Also it may help to read the blog if you are finding it tricky to use with a bowden setup, I had to tweak some of the retraction and flow rate settings to get perfect results.


Base of the Potjie is printed in conductive Graphite PLA

Because I don't have all that much Magnetic Iron PLA remaining, I'm going to slightly modify the model, and also make the bottom section from Proto-Pasta electrically conductive Graphite PLA.

Graphite PLA has a really nice shine-shimmer. It'll actually look more like an old blackened cooking pot than the Iron will after it's rusted.

To print with Graphite PLA, just use normal PLA settings, I get great  results from the material. It seems to produce tighter and more defined print features than many other PLA's on the market.

All printed (it really looks like an iron pot) - they will be rusting as you read this...

Print advice - (Proto-Pasta Magnetic IRON PLA)

What settings did you use? - You can use normal PLA temperatures , I use 190 Degrees C for Magnetic Iron. It conducts heat, so the hotter you go, the more likely you will have a runny flow, oozing and stringing / blobs.

You should not need to go over 210 Degrees C. If you start to see a blob forming on the end of your nozzle, then you are printing too hot and the flow rate may be slightly too high. Lower flow by 5% and try to use a 190 / 195 Degrees C temp range.

Apart from that, it's really easy to use.

Be gentle with the filament, it's not very brittle, but more fragile in filament form than normal PLA.

Why use it? - Because it's Iron, and you can rust it. Seriously if you don't want to use some immediately after reading this and looking at my previous blog post about it, I don't know what else to tell you.

Is it strong? - It's heavy, really surprisingly heavy. And yes it is reasonably strong in printed form. I would not recommend dropping the printed parts, they may crack.

Doing any rusting process will also weaken the parts. Not greatly, but they do get weaker and are more likely to de-laminate if dropped, knocked etc.

Is it easy to use/print - Yes, just watch out for dribble collection on the nozzle (you are too high temp).

You will also need to adjust your extruder feed rate by around. Do experiment, depending on the feeder type, grip and pressure I have founf anything from -5% to +15%

Use Z-hop it makes your nozzle last a bit longer!

Do you have to dry it before/after use? - No - it's good as it is.

Do i need a 'special' nozzle? - Yes! - it's abrasive. Use a 0.4mm or bigger nozzle. It will work fine with Stainless, Hardened steel, or as I'm using here a Olsson Ruby.

You can use a brass/copper nozzles, but they will wear out (and down). Quite quickly if you use more than about 500g of it.

Does it smell when printing? - No,  none at all.

Does it come on a eco friendly spool? - Yes! :-) The Proto-Pasta spools are about the best cardboard spools you can get at the moment. They look great, and feed well, and are 100% compressed paper.

Conclusion for Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron PLA - I would happily spend much more of my spare 3D printing time using Proto-Pasta Magnetic Iron for further experimentation. It produces such interesting finished results after rusting. I'm sure there are neat and interesting ways to age parts with different rusting formulations. I will be doing more experimentation next year with this material.

For me it's just more fun than Proto-Pasta Stainless steel, but that's really cool too.

Day #11 Is Completed. With a bit of model adjustment, and good judgement on filament usage, I just managed to do another rusted Iron 3D Print.

Today's story, for people who ask is going to be about the Potjie - "In South Africa, a potjiekos, is a dish prepared outdoors. It is traditionally cooked in a round, cast iron, three-legged pot, the potjie, " - Tom Van Den Bon - via Twitter.

I also very much expect to be talking about why it's so heavy and if it's supposed to be rusting...

I'm really delighted with the Potjie printed in Magnetic Iron.

Join me next time for Day #12 - I'm slipping slightly further behind schedule every day, so I'm going to try and catch up.

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

Monday, 11 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing advice #Day 10 ColorFabb Woodfill

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 10

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day #10, and today the gift is designed by Michael Scholtz -  It's a Manger.

Manger in Colorfabb Woodfill.

Day 10 is a Manger (A structure to hold animal feed - Wikipedia). It's traditionally going to be made out of a wooden material. I did think about using Bamboo or maybe even Cork for this one, but it's unlikely Mangers would have come in those options. Back in the day in Nazareth you probably had a choice of 'light wood' or chopping down a tree to make your own.

I often use Colorfabb Woodfill, It's light coloured and as I only had a small amount remaining, so it's just about perfect for a small Manger.

Colorfabb Woodfill. One of the lighter wood filaments available, low smell and a real woody feel.


I was slightly unsure what orientation to print this model, but then realised it just needed to be printed upside down. No bridging or support required.

That was simple. it's an easy material to use and can have some really neat uses.


*Just a small detour to explain about some other material testing*

Also, there is a story about the tree sections for Days 10 &11 - If you remember I was wondering what material to do them in - lacking in greens at the moment...
Tridea 100% recycled PET - nice looking green, really complex material properties (interesting).

I was testing out a new 100% Recycled PET filament from Tridea - It's proving to be very challenging to print with. But an interesting material because of the way the plastic can transform (I'll explain more on this soon). I had some failures, and success, but there is a lot more work to do in testing this material. I'm paused testing for now, but will do a separate blog post, now I have worked out what's going on and how to print with it. (Shout out to Greg at E3D for confirming my findings - and being the only other person I could find who had any Tridea filament) - Thanks Greg.

First problem - the filament has a lot of moisture, but that's easily fixed by drying.

(But it's so much more complex than this... It'll just have to wait for it's own blog post.)

One of the reasons I persisted was the fact it was a really nice shade of green. But in the end I had to go to my fallback option of using a 'special roll' of custom 'LulzBot - Lime Green' nGen that ColorFabb kindly sent me for TAZ6 based projects earlier this year.

nGen saved the day (literally Days 10 and 11).

Not wanting to use up such an exclusive roll of nGen, I used it just for the top filled part of tree 10 and 11 and used Black nGen for the bulk of the print. It'll be hidden inside the tree, and it actually gives it a dark (inside the middle of a tree) kind of look to it.

Because this ColorFabb nGen saved the day on the tree sections, it made me think of using up the last of my Woodfill material. Otherwise you may have got Laywood in this blog post. I'll try to find another object for Laywood advice soon.



Print advice - (Colorfabb woodfill)

What settings did you use? - You can use normal PLA temperatures , I use 195 Degrees C for Woodfill. Don't go over 210 Degrees C. The hotter you go, and the slower you go the darket woodfill will apprear on the finished print.

If you find that the tops of your print are darker (especially if they are small features, where the nozzle flow has slowed doen) Set a minimum speed and also set normal print speed to be somewhere similar, so the overall speed is about the same.

I often use 0.2mm layer height (It helps the wood-grain look) and a 0.4mm nozzle or larger - don't use really tiny nozzles under 0.4mm, they will clog.

Use a higher number of top/bottom solid layers (I use 5 @ 0.2mm) to give a good finish.
Print speed - it's good as 20-120mm/sec - Set minimum speed to be 10mm/sec because like many wood filaments it likes to expand and ooze out of the nozzle. You can combat some ooze by lowering temperature, but watch out for lower layer bond strength or weak extruders jamming (use a good extruder, geared preferably).
16% infill and two perimeters for this model.

Why use it? - It's the easiest to use wood filament (in my opinion), looks good and can be sanded, drilled, tapped, even stained after printing. It has a very light wood finish, unlike most other types that are often darker or showing less grain finish.

Is it strong? - When printed it has good layer bonding strength, it's slightly weaker to handle than normal PLA and be careful with the filament - especially in 1.75mm it can snap if not handled carefully and spooled nicely into the machine.

Is it easy to use/print - Yes, it's about the easiest to use wood filament.You will mostly have to combat stringing on most machines, do this with extruder retraction, lower nozzle temperatures and high speed travel moves.

You will also need to increase your extruder feed rate by around 15-20% I use 20% extra - (120% in total).

This is one of the very few filaments I do not use Z-hop to print with. It's enabled for almost every other filament I use. (Top-Tip - always use Z-hop / Z-lift at 1 x your print Z height setting)

Do you have to dry it before/after use? - No - Keep it dry and sealed in the bag, it will take on moisture and that will affect print quality, fine angel-hair like stringing, gaps and generally more ooze if it's not dry. I have not dried any woodfill filament before.

Do i need a 'special' nozzle? - No, it's not abrasive, just remember to use a 0.4mm or bigger nozzle. It will work fine with Stainless, Hardened steel, Copper, Ruby or Brass nozzles. Many filled filaments can tend to collect debris and runny material around the nozzle, so clean before and after use.

Does it smell when printing? - No,  it has a very light odour, but it's not like most woof filaments that smell like burnt MFD (wood fibre board) It's one of the few wood filaments I can stand to be in the same room as when printing.

Does it come on a eco friendly spool? - No :( it's using the normal Polycarbonate Colorfabb filament spool.

Conclusion for Colorfabb woodfill - Excellent, wood finish, no problems or failures. Just work on tuning so you get limited stringing, that's the key and it'll print really after that.
I always clean the nozzle after using filled filaments (especially wood), inside and out with a section of Nylon at a higher temperature. It will have some resin-like sticky residue after printing, so get it cleaned ASAP.

Day #10 Is Completed. That was a bit of a close one, didn't think I would get it done in time.

The story for today is that there is more than one type of wood filled filament available, experiment with them, and see what works best for you. Do try Bamboo and Cork - they are really fun and look fantastic - Corkfill from Colorfabb is one of my all time favourites. (Yes, cork is a sustainable product).

Join me next time for Day #11

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

Sunday, 10 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing advice #Day 9 PolySmooth *Glitter*

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 9

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Yesterday - Day #8 Post (BEMO - Handheld game station) was printed in 3D4Makers Facilan C8 and a Translucent 'clear/milky' PLA from Pongostore - being used as an LED light guide.

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day #9 already, and today the gift is designed by Candice Howe -  It's a trumpet.

Today is all about the glitter.

The first thing I realised when I spotted this trumpet for day 9, was that I had no gold filament at all :(

I considered other metal filled materials, then quickly came to the conclusion this was the perfect model to demonstrate another use for PolySmooth - *Giltter*


First I cut the model in half again. No point in making this a really tricky print, especially if it's going to be covered in glitter :)

The two printed parts are together, now we need to get it glittered.

Jam-jar (empty of jam) full of 100% IPA.

Use a different filament type (not polySmooth) to make a dipping hook. Then dip and wait about 3-4 minutes for the plastic to sticky up.

It will have 'smoothed' and also have a sticky film all over it. 
Touch it if you need... but it's sticky, trust me.

Now, go crazy with the glitter. move it around and cover everything (not the room).

Shake it off a little, I whacked it against a cardboard box. And then let it dry for 1-2 hours.

When dry, brush off any loose glitter - the rest will be really well stuck on to the PolySmooth object.

Makes for great Christmas decorations. 

We have about 5 inches (or more) of snow here in the UK. So we are going out to do some sledging.

The tree is looking splendid.


Using PolySmooth with glitter - advice.

If you need to know my settings and thoughts on using PolySmooth, take a look at the Day3 Advent, where I used it for a Christmas rubber ducky.

Can't you just use ABS and acetone + glitter? - Yes, you can, that's another way to do it. Some glitters do melt using acetone, so try it out first before dipping your part.

Why use glitter? - Why not? It's the only way to get a glitter finish. Obvious really.

Does the glitter stay on the model? - Yes, It seems to bond well, when dry you need to brush off the loose stuff, but after that it seems to stay stuck.

Why not just use glue? - You could, but it's a bit boring isn't it? - We had fun with PolySmooth and have done quite a few different models like this. It works really well.

Can I use X type of glitter? - Yes ;)  - just try it, it's fun.

Isn't glitter bad for the environment? - Yes, if it gets into the water system / ponds / sea. Don't waste it. I still have some in the house and the Kids enjoy using it, we will use responsibly.

Day #9 Is Completed. Glitter things up, you know you want too.

The story for today is simply about having fun (and making a bit of a mess).

Join me next time for Day #10 - I don't have the tree sections 10 or 11 printed yet, or a good looking green material to use... so wish me luck.

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.

Saturday, 9 December 2017

Christmas Advent 3D Printing advice #Day 8 3D4M Facilan C8 and Pongostore PLA

December advent calendar - modular Christmas tree
3D Printing advice #Day 8

For the background and introduction - Day #1 Post click here

Yesterday - Day #7 Post (water bottle rocket) was printed in Prusa research Easy ABS-T and Filamentive Recycled RPLA.

Christmas Advent 2017 Download on Thingiverse here - designed by Tom Van den Bon  With some help for each day by the South African Makers team.


It's time for Day #8, and today the gift is designed by Rick Treweek -  It's a Bemo.

BEMO (handheld game station)- Read below - I make him come alive with a flickering LED...

For Day 8 is made sense to use a new material called 'C8' - Facilan C8 is a material you probably will not have used. C8 is a new (Nov 2017) I was sent a pre-production roll for testing and feedback to the manufacturers 3D4Makers.


Another reason for using C8 to print this model, is that I have found C8 manages to translate to the print a lot of detail from the 3D file. The finished output quality is quite unlike any filament you will have used before. It's a combination of a matte finish, smooth, an almost silky touch surface and optically it has an almost magic ability to hide layer lines. Sounds interesting. (the camera catches them more than in real-life with your eye)

First I must just say the pre-production roll I was sent was out of tolerance, so the quality should actually improve even more than these images below. I have calibrated the diameter (it's low ~1.6mm) for each model, but because this was a prototype batch run it drifts a little and that gives tiny (and I mean tiny) surface / perimeter drift over layers.


3D4Makers have a full production line setup now for C8 and they are busy manufacturing it - Their website as of today states an end of December 2017 shipping date.

One last thing before we move on - The filament feedback form from 3D4Makers for C8 was the very best I have ever been sent - it was encouraging all feedback on every single aspect. Tips, advice, improvements and general comment sections on every area. I will at some point post the entire completed C8 feedback form on here, in the hope that more manufacturers do a similar thing.
Top marks for 3D4Makers here. They didn't just assume it was going to be an awesome material.

For this model I have also used a really nice semi-transparent/translucent 'clear/milky' PLA from Pongostore. This is for the optical light guide (Face of BEMO) that's using a flickering LED powered by a 3v lithium battery cell.

Finally found a new source of LED light guide filament (PLA) for optical electronics projects.

Excelvan PLA - also really great for LED light-guides.

Before finding Pongostore translucent PLA this year, I was using Excelvan PLA (see above - see eBay if you are lucky) It was very tricky to get hold of! I was often shipped the wrong colour / material / size (from eBay sellers - it was the only place I could source it). Eventually the supply dried up completely (at any price). This is my last spool, when that runs out at least I now have Pongostore for a very similar type.

Lets get on with Day 8 - 

First tip starts straight away with what to do if you have a plate of model parts in one STL file? - you may want to print these parts in different colours, but it's just one model file.


This is an easy one, but I still get people asking me how to do this.

Load the plate of parts into netfabb (it's free) and use the cut options to chop up the plate into separate parts. Above I'm cutting in Y. Then export the model top left by right clicking and save to STL.


Then delete that part (it's important to do that). And you can do the same on the X axis to cut out the base and head parts. Repeat as required to get all the individual parts separated.

I have modified the body section to add a 5mm flickering LED and 20mm Coin-cell battery.


Now you can print out just the parts you want, in various colours/materials. Above is the body and base printed in C8. You can see above the hole for the LED and a step to hold the BEMO face away from the LED light so we get a diffused glow.


Using an LED that flickers (like a candle) is one of the easiest ways to light up a model like this. all you need is a 3V CR2032 Lithium battery - one leg of the LED goes under the battery, the other on top and the printed 'strap' holds the connection.

Faclian C8 material also likes permanent Sharpie pens. It's a quick and easy way to colour your model, instead of using the filament-swap method we did in Day 4.

You can get helpers involved too :) - You can see the LED in this image above.

But not the fury kind. Tiggy was trying to help!

Almost completed - adding filament for legs and arms. The Pongostore PLA face is also now fitted.


She's Alive!

The flickering LED effect really makes this an interesting object for our advent tree.

Print advice - (Facilan C8)

What settings did you use? - You can use Faclian C8 like PLA. I use 214 Degrees C and a heated bed of 55 Degrees C.

I found that another +20% of extruder retraction was required for the best results (at 214 Degrees C) you don;t need quite that much at 200 Degrees C - but that will depend on the speed you are printing.

Why use it? - C8 is new, it seems to be an almost ideal filament for anyone that does not like ABS or wants to move away from using ABS. It has many of the same properties of ABS and it's easier to print with, no warp or de-lamination.

Is it strong? - Yes, It's a strong and tough plastic (stronger than 'normal' PLA). It has good impact resistance and layer bond strength is very good. Just not quite as good as PETG, but it's better than PLA, and most ABS materials.

Is it easy to use/print - Yes - My only real issues were the filament size and tolerance - that should not be a problem when they are in full production.

Do you have to dry it before/after use? - No. Just keep it sealed in a bag with desiccant as normal.

Do i need a 'special' nozzle? - No, it's not abrasive, I have used it with all different sizes of nozzle from 0.25 to 1.6mm - It will work fine with Stainless, Hardened steel, Copper, Ruby or Brass nozzles. 

Does it smell when printing? - No. I can't detect any smell at all using it at any temperature from 200 to 222 Degrees C.

What's exactly in C8? - I can't say, but 3D4Makers do state it's a 'friendly bio-plastic' blend.

Does it come on a eco friendly spool? - No, :( It's on a generic virgin plastic clear ABS reel. With a recycle logo.

Conclusion for Faclian C8 - For the price (39 euro for 750g) it is probably one of the very best and easiest to use materials I have ever used. I plan to use more of it, and it's a Bio-plastic, so I may never need ABS again...

The Pongostore PLA materials are really good and easy to use too, I just don't have a lot of other advice other than you can use 'normal' PLA settings.  As you can see, the Translucent material is fantastic as an LED light guide.

Day #8 Is Completed. I hope you try adding some simple electronics / LED's to your 3D models.

The story for today is about helping 3D printed objects come to life with simple electronics and Optical parts for LED fun. - also keep cats away from 3D Printing :)

Join me next time for Day #9

Thanks for reading.

Rich.

Please join me on Twitter @RichRap3D

My profile and posts over on Google+

Files and designs shared on YouMagine

Files and designs shared on GitHub

Files and designs shared on Repables 

My Youtube channel is here, all 3D Printing and Hi-Def video content.